Building a scenic - a step by step guide

For background to why I built this scenic, please read my previous blog!

This is a step by step guide as to how I created this model.
My techniques and materials were selected based on knowledge I picked up from a combination of watching videos online, as well as reading various articles in magazines on how to make model scenery.

My techniques may not be the same as the ones you use, so if you have any techniques or (constructive) comments, please leave them in the comments box below!

STEP 1: THE BASIC SHAPE

I decided to create my scenic layout using the inside of a box.

I started to build up a basic shape using some old christmas wrapping paper I found in the back of a cupboard. 

I scrunched it into a rough shape and taped it to the walls of the box, as well as the floor of the box.

When doing this, you can build up the shape using several pieces of paper, and tape it into the rough shape you want the hills / mountains to be. 

I decided that in one corner of the box, I wanted the hills to be quite high, and in the opposite corner I thought a smaller hill would balance it out, and so I added more scrunched up paper in the opposite corner.

With a bit of tweaking, I ended up with an overall shape that I was happy with.

I decided this is an ideal shape to form into a stream, with the higher ground on each side of the water.

STEP 2: BUILDING UP THE ROCKS

The next step was to create a hard rock using the scrunched up paper as a guide to form the shape.

To do this, I mixed up some all purpose filler with water using the instructions on the packet and added in some brown paint (to give the rock a base colour without having to paint it afterwards). 

I dipped strips of kitchen roll into the mixture. 

My son Dominic was keen to get involved in this stage, but once he realised it was as messy, he helped by tearing up the strips of kitchen roll for me!

I then applied this plaster covered kitchen roll over the rolled up paper to form the covered rock surface.

I soon discovered this is a very messy process! 

I also discovered that larger strips of kitchen roll are better to work with than thin strips, as they tend to be easier to lay on flat.

The kitchen roll / plaster mix has a tendency to dry fairly quickly, so I recommend making up smaller batches of the mixture so you don't waste much.

If you are adding paint into the mix, it's also fairly important to get the same mixture of filler / water / paint if you want an even colour to the rock base.

Also, because it is filler that is being used, it will dry into a hard structure, making the rocks sturdy enough to accept any scenery details you add to them!

STEP 3: BASIC GROUND COVER

Once the rocks had dried, and had turned nice and solid (this may take a few days to dry completely, depending on how much filler mixture you use), it was time to start applying the greenery!

Build the greenery up in stages for better results.

I started by applying a layer of 50/50 mixture of PVA glue and water.
There are many different ways you can apply this to your model, however I simply used an old paintbrush and painted the mixture directly onto the formed rock formations.

I then started laying the ground cover, using some green blended turf, made by Woodland Scenics. (This is also known as "flock").

I chose Woodland Scenics items because it was the manufacturer that people often mentioned in the video tutorials I'd watched. 
(It was also the only type available at the local hobby store I bought my materials from!)

There are other model scenery manufacturers who produce other items, however I have not tried anything other than Woodland Scenics materials.

After I had covered the area I wanted with the green blended turf, I used a basic spray bottle filled with "wetted water" - tap water and a few drops of washing up liquid.

The washing up liquid helps break the surface tension so you can apply more PVA glue / water mixture to the flock to help stick it down.

Give the layer of flock a fair soaking with the wetted water, then apply more of the PVA glue / water mixture on top of the flock.

The beer is optional! :)

Again, there are several ways in which you can do this - I used an old plastic syringe to drip the glue / water mix onto the flock.

You could use a pipette to drip the glue on if you have a smallish area to stick down, or simply make up a spray bottle of the glue / water mixture and spray it over the model if you have a large area to cover.

Also remember to be careful - if you squirt the glue / water mixture at your model too hard, the force will wash away / remove some of your texture.

STEP 4: MORE DETAILED GROUND COVER

After I had applied the base coat of the scenery, I started to build up more and more details using various different turfs, foliage and other model materials.

Initially, I was worried about how wet my model seemed to get, however after it is left to dry out, the glue holds the flock and other scenic materials down very well!

After I had set a layer of flock down, sprayed it with wetted water and applied the glue, I then went on and added my next layer, using a different material.

Some of my materials!

I found that the larger the variety of different materials you use for your ground cover, the better results you can achieve!

On this particular model, I ended up using about six different base materials that I had bought.

I started with a mixture of blended turf and coarse turf in different shades of green to make the base grass texture.

Once this had dried and set, I started to add some clump foliage to create small bushes to my scene.

With the clump foliage, I found that using PVA glue by itself works well.
Because the glue is thicker by itself, it gives the heavier material more of a chance to stick to the model.

Again, when I had finished adding materials to my scene, I sprayed the new additional materials with wetted water and then applied the 50/50 mix of PVA glue and water to stick it down firmly.

After these had set, I added some Poly fiber in places to create vines, undergrowth and other rambling vegetation.

The area I planned a waterfall...

My next addition was to include some Lichen in areas to create some more bushes and ground cover.

I found this material felt more moist than the other materials I had worked with, mainly because the lichen is a natural material.

I found this slightly harder to attach to the model, and ended up using PVA glue without a water mix to attach it.

I added some static grass flock patches on the higher hills to create grassy patches.

Initially, my idea for this model was to be a stream, with high rocks and mountains on each side and I also wanted to incorporate a waterfall in the corner of the model.

However, I didn't have any materials that could be used to create water, so my design became a dried out creek bed, once had a train track running through it.

STEP 5: FINISHING TOUCHES

I finished up my model by adding a sandy texture in the creek bed, added some weeds using a mixture of my other materials, and then added a piece of track I painted with poster paint to give the appearance of rust.

I attached some weeds and some small twigs over the track to give it an appearance that it had been left deserted for a while,

I also added an old plastic Shell wagon I had bought from Ebay to the model, however I spent very little time on weathering this so far. (It's on my to do list!)

Voila! Considering this was my first attempt at scenery model making, I am pretty pleased with the final result!


I took my model to the Darlington Model Railway Club and was told about a competition to create a scenery layout in a shoebox, which I plan on entering.

I have also ordered more materials to allow me to add more details to my next model, and will post an update when I create it!


Eventually, I plan on creating a full model railway layout, however this won't be until I have a place to set it up on a more permanent basis!

Please let me know what you think of my layout! 
Do you have any hints, tips or constructive comments? 
Please leave your comments below!

- Thelittlerich